Sometimes giving a vegetable very simple treatment is the way to let it shine.
This asparagus recipe, adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s “vibrant vegetable” cookbook Plenty, has few ingredients, basic preparation steps, yet wows with its flavor. Although the ingredient list is short, making sure those ingredients are of high quality will lead to more delicious results.
Asparagus is the seasonal star of this composed salad. The supporting actors are boiled eggs, capers, and olive oil. On a recent trip through Israel and Greece, we were served olive oil at almost every meal. Just a drizzle of that liquid gold with a bit of salt and pepper could really transform a dish.
Some or all of the components of this salad can be prepared ahead of time. Ottolenghi has written his recipe with the asparagus served warm, right after it has been briefly cooked and dried off. I opted to try serving the salad at room temperature so that I could do the prep work ahead of time (and be assured of bright green stalks of asparagus). After breaking off the tough lower stem of each stalk, I briefly cooked the asparagus and then shocked the spears in iced water.
We’ve had the salad both warm and at room temperature and have liked them equally.
Preparing the eggs can certainly be done ahead of time. After boiling the eggs, I’m careful to drain them the moment they’ve reached the hard-boiled stage. I refresh the water several times to cool them quickly. This keeps the yolks from forming a dark sulfurous ring. Ottolenghi suggests using a large-hole box grater to shred the boiled eggs. I found that a couple of downward strokes and turns with an egg slicer gave me similar results.
The combination of flavors and textures in this salad is striking: green stalks of just-tender asparagus play off the luxurious but light coat of fruity olive oil. The egg yolks and whites add a soft richness that is balanced with the pop of the tart capers. (I used twice the amount of capers that Ottolenghi called for.) Sea salt sprinkles and freshly ground black pepper complete the flavor circle.
I wondered about the name of this dish, associating “mimosa” with a fragrant tree adorned with soft pink blossoms that I knew during my childhood in Louisiana. In Greece and Israel we saw mimosa trees with yellow blooms, and the bright egg yolk pieces on the green stalks of asparagus do conjure up the same palette. Of course, you can also think of the brunch delight that mixes orange juice and champagne. This mimosa salad evokes a sense of celebration in the same way.
Simple, high quality ingredients create a dish that’s a sensation.
Asparagus Mimosa
Sunnyside Cook
Ingredients
- 1 egg
- 1 bunch asparagus
- 1 tablespoon of good-quality extra virgin olive oil
- 2 teaspoons capers drained
- 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
- freshly ground pepper
Instructions
- Put eggs (cook as many as you wish to use later) in cold water to cover in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower heat to medium low and cook for 12 minutes, or until hard boiled. Drain water from pan and refill pan with cold water. Drain water again, crack egg shells, and refill pan with cold water, allowing eggs to cool as quickly as possible.
- Drain and peel eggs (you will only need one for this recipe). Shred the egg white and yolk. Either coarsely chop on side of boxed grater or use an egg slicer to thinly slice in one direction, turn 180 degrees and slice again.
- Remove the tough lower ends of the asparagus stalks by bending until they snap off. Discard the ends.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil, put the spears in and cook for 3 minutes or until just tender.
- If serving warm: Drain and dry off asparagus spears by blotting with a tea towel. Proceed to step 7.
- If serving room temperature: Remove the spears from the boiling water and immerse in a bowl of iced water. Allow asparagus to cool and blot dry. Cover with plastic wrap until serving time.
- Drizzle oil over asparagus and toss gently. Arrange on a plate and then sprinkle with capers, salt and pepper. Place grated egg on top along the middle of the stalks so that the tops and bottoms of the asparagus remain visible.